
Classic or rebellious … Styles
sported by legends like Audrey Hepburn and James Dean are in
this season.

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If
you live for fashion, or just want to look great without forsaking comfort,
clothes this spring/summer will fit to a tee. Whether you want to channel
the glamorous sophistication of Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn or the
rebellious cachet of James Dean and Carly Simon, designers and stores
have what you crave. This season’s offerings are about shape, color
and individuality. It’s time to shed those heavy winter wools,
apply sunscreen and have some fun.
The skinny for men
The important news for men is a slimmer,
more tapered silhouette. Jackets have either one or two buttons, narrow
lapels and fitted waists. Pants
are flat front, less full and more tapered at the bottom of the leg. The
overall look is that of an inverted triangle: the body shape that each
of us would kill to have. When wearing this look, choose shirts that taper
and fit at the waist. The collars should be smaller. Ties should be skinnier.
It’s all about keeping the proportions harmonious. Striped or print
shirts look best with a patterned tie, but keep the shades similar and
the scale of design different. For a casual, laid-back look, this trimmer
silhouette looks phenomenal when worn with a tee and sandals. Choose shades
that complement your individual skin, hair and eye colors.
Nautical and sporty themes are everywhere this spring and summer. The look
of all white is especially popular. Another nautical look to consider combines
striped tees in navy and white with crisp white pants or jeans. Remember
to wear vertical stripes unless you are thin; horizontal stripes create
the illusion of width. Team this military-inspired look with white or navy
sneakers, and add a red belt for extra punch.
A spoof on the all-American, preppy look
(and one that I’m particularly
fond of) is wearing two, even three, brightly colored, polo-type shirts
with flat-front khakis and sandals — throw on a striped seersucker
jacket to finish the look. These fresh, vibrant bursts of color can erase
the sallow skin and dark circles that follow a night of too much partying
and too little sleep.
The masculine appeal of denim is stronger
than ever and the choices have never been more varied. Look for jeans
that have two percent lycra; they
hug exactly where you want, but are very forgiving where you need them
to be. They’re also more comfortable than 100 percent cotton. But,
bear in mind, that they will stretch instead of shrink, so buy them about
one size smaller than usual. My favorites are Seven for all Mankind. They
look great on everyone. Seven jeans can be found at Nordstrom.
The options for women
In a word, endless. Women have more choices
this spring/summer and fall/winter
than I’ve ever seen. Whether you love a long lean silhouette or full hourglass
shape reminiscent of the ’50s, there are endless options to suit every
woman. Themes run the gamut from the unstructured bohemian and ethnic-inspired
to sartorial gender-bending mixes.
Jackets are the foundation of every wardrobe
and they are being shown in a myriad of shapes and silhouettes. The
jacket that most exemplifies this season is the
shrunken, cropped, fitted jacket. It works especially well with fuller pants,
jeans and full skirts. It looks sporty when worn with nautical themes or jeans
yet polished when paired with full skirts and men’s-inspired, baggy trousers.
I prefer the longer, more unstructured jacket with lean, flat-front pants. The
safari jacket — introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in 1968 — is back
and looks great with jeans, cropped pants, shorts and some skirts.
Pants this season are cropped and short,
flat-front and tapered or — think
Kate Hepburn — pleated, full and cuffed. Shorts that fall just at or below
the knee can be found in every designer’s collection. Cropped, Capri pants
can be worn by short or tall women. Choose a shoe based on your height. If you
are tall, a flat is great; however, shorter women should choose at least a two
inch kitten heel. The narrow silhouette of the leaner pant works on a variety
of body types, but the same rules apply to shoes. The Katherine Hepburn –inspired
trouser looks best on a tall, thin woman. Otherwise, they will add bulk.
Skirts are available in even more options
and styles: A-line, pencil, pleated, full, voluminous, fluted, kick
pleat — in every length from short, right
below the knee, or longer. Don’t immediately dismiss the idea of wearing
a full skirt. They look particularly great on tall women, and, when paired with
a smaller top, can camouflage the look of wide hips. Whether choosing a jacket,
pant or skirt, look for a pleasing balance and sense of proportion.
Shirts and tops should be chosen with regard
to pant or skirt. If the silhouette is lean, a loose, flowing, bohemian
tunic balances the shape. Conversely, if
the bottom is full, keep the shirt and jacket slim, and add a belt to highlight
a small waist. Crisp, white cotton shirts are always hot — style-wise,
that is. Remember Sharon Stone’s long, full skirt and starched, white,
cotton shirt at the Oscars a few years ago? Wow…what a woman.
Like shirts and tops, choose shoes based
on the proportion of the entire outfit. I love classic loafers with
baggy, pleated, cuffed pants. However, if the pant
is very long, it looks best with a high heel. Pencil skirts work best with a
classic, high pump. Depending on the height of the woman, a full skirt can be
worn with either a flat or a heel. Ditto for long, lean pants: if you’re
tall, you can wear a flat or heel; if you’re short, choose a heel.
Choices, choices, choices
With so many great options from which to
choose, how do you make choices that fit your lifestyle and budget?
My advice is to take a long, objective look at
what you currently own. Spend less money on pieces you believe are seasonal fads,
and buy fewer of them. Add key pieces that mix and match with things you already
have. And, finally, don’t take it so seriously. After all, this time next
year, you’ll have other clothes to get excited about. Like I said before,
have fun — and don’t forget the sunscreen. |