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Edward Norman
qstyle1@yahoo.com

Trends for the season

Classic or rebellious … Styles sported by legends like Audrey Hepburn and James Dean are in this season.

 

 
If you live for fashion, or just want to look great without forsaking comfort, clothes this spring/summer will fit to a tee. Whether you want to channel the glamorous sophistication of Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn or the rebellious cachet of James Dean and Carly Simon, designers and stores have what you crave. This season’s offerings are about shape, color and individuality. It’s time to shed those heavy winter wools, apply sunscreen and have some fun.

The skinny for men

The important news for men is a slimmer, more tapered silhouette. Jackets have either one or two buttons, narrow lapels and fitted waists. Pants are flat front, less full and more tapered at the bottom of the leg. The overall look is that of an inverted triangle: the body shape that each of us would kill to have. When wearing this look, choose shirts that taper and fit at the waist. The collars should be smaller. Ties should be skinnier. It’s all about keeping the proportions harmonious. Striped or print shirts look best with a patterned tie, but keep the shades similar and the scale of design different. For a casual, laid-back look, this trimmer silhouette looks phenomenal when worn with a tee and sandals. Choose shades that complement your individual skin, hair and eye colors.

Nautical and sporty themes are everywhere this spring and summer. The look of all white is especially popular. Another nautical look to consider combines striped tees in navy and white with crisp white pants or jeans. Remember to wear vertical stripes unless you are thin; horizontal stripes create the illusion of width. Team this military-inspired look with white or navy sneakers, and add a red belt for extra punch.

A spoof on the all-American, preppy look (and one that I’m particularly fond of) is wearing two, even three, brightly colored, polo-type shirts with flat-front khakis and sandals — throw on a striped seersucker jacket to finish the look. These fresh, vibrant bursts of color can erase the sallow skin and dark circles that follow a night of too much partying and too little sleep.

The masculine appeal of denim is stronger than ever and the choices have never been more varied. Look for jeans that have two percent lycra; they hug exactly where you want, but are very forgiving where you need them to be. They’re also more comfortable than 100 percent cotton. But, bear in mind, that they will stretch instead of shrink, so buy them about one size smaller than usual. My favorites are Seven for all Mankind. They look great on everyone. Seven jeans can be found at Nordstrom.

The options for women

In a word, endless. Women have more choices this spring/summer and fall/winter than I’ve ever seen. Whether you love a long lean silhouette or full hourglass shape reminiscent of the ’50s, there are endless options to suit every woman. Themes run the gamut from the unstructured bohemian and ethnic-inspired to sartorial gender-bending mixes.

Jackets are the foundation of every wardrobe and they are being shown in a myriad of shapes and silhouettes. The jacket that most exemplifies this season is the shrunken, cropped, fitted jacket. It works especially well with fuller pants, jeans and full skirts. It looks sporty when worn with nautical themes or jeans yet polished when paired with full skirts and men’s-inspired, baggy trousers. I prefer the longer, more unstructured jacket with lean, flat-front pants. The safari jacket — introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in 1968 — is back and looks great with jeans, cropped pants, shorts and some skirts.

Pants this season are cropped and short, flat-front and tapered or — think Kate Hepburn — pleated, full and cuffed. Shorts that fall just at or below the knee can be found in every designer’s collection. Cropped, Capri pants can be worn by short or tall women. Choose a shoe based on your height. If you are tall, a flat is great; however, shorter women should choose at least a two inch kitten heel. The narrow silhouette of the leaner pant works on a variety of body types, but the same rules apply to shoes. The Katherine Hepburn –inspired trouser looks best on a tall, thin woman. Otherwise, they will add bulk.

Skirts are available in even more options and styles: A-line, pencil, pleated, full, voluminous, fluted, kick pleat — in every length from short, right below the knee, or longer. Don’t immediately dismiss the idea of wearing a full skirt. They look particularly great on tall women, and, when paired with a smaller top, can camouflage the look of wide hips. Whether choosing a jacket, pant or skirt, look for a pleasing balance and sense of proportion.

Shirts and tops should be chosen with regard to pant or skirt. If the silhouette is lean, a loose, flowing, bohemian tunic balances the shape. Conversely, if the bottom is full, keep the shirt and jacket slim, and add a belt to highlight a small waist. Crisp, white cotton shirts are always hot — style-wise, that is. Remember Sharon Stone’s long, full skirt and starched, white, cotton shirt at the Oscars a few years ago? Wow…what a woman.

Like shirts and tops, choose shoes based on the proportion of the entire outfit. I love classic loafers with baggy, pleated, cuffed pants. However, if the pant is very long, it looks best with a high heel. Pencil skirts work best with a classic, high pump. Depending on the height of the woman, a full skirt can be worn with either a flat or a heel. Ditto for long, lean pants: if you’re tall, you can wear a flat or heel; if you’re short, choose a heel.

Choices, choices, choices

With so many great options from which to choose, how do you make choices that fit your lifestyle and budget? My advice is to take a long, objective look at what you currently own. Spend less money on pieces you believe are seasonal fads, and buy fewer of them. Add key pieces that mix and match with things you already have. And, finally, don’t take it so seriously. After all, this time next year, you’ll have other clothes to get excited about. Like I said before, have fun — and don’t forget the sunscreen.


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